The creative process behind a film's costume design can be a captivating journey, especially when it involves a unique interpretation of historical figures. Here's a deep dive into the sartorial choices for the movie 'Hamnet', leaving you wondering: How can dried scabs inspire fashion?
A Heart-Wrenching Visual Metaphor
Costume designer Malgosia Turzanska envisioned a powerful image for 'Hamnet': a pulsating heart muscle, setting the tone for the film's emotional narrative. This vivid imagination translated into the prominent use of red in the costumes of Agnes, played by Jessie Buckley. The movie, based on Maggie O'Farrell's novel, explores the grief-stricken lives of William Shakespeare and his wife, Agnes, after the death of their son, Hamnet, and the subsequent creation of Shakespeare's renowned play, 'Hamlet'.
But here's where it gets intriguing: Turzanska and director Chloe Zhao's collaboration began without a script, just the novel. They delved into the symbolism of blood, from its vibrant flow to its dried remnants, as a metaphor for Agnes' emotional journey.
A Colorful Journey of Grief and Healing
As the story unfolds, Agnes' attire evolves. We first see her in youthful red bark cloth, symbolizing vitality. But as she settles into motherhood, the red tones fade, reflecting her shift in priorities. The turning point arrives with Hamnet's tragic death, where grief engulfs Agnes, and her clothing darkens. When her husband, William Shakespeare, returns, their sartorial contrast is striking. She's in a modest brown smock, while he's adorned in layers and leather, a subtle hint at their emotional distance.
And this is the part most people miss—a subtle detail in Agnes' costume. When she rises from the table, it appears she forgot to wear a skirt. Turzanska explains this as a deliberate choice, symbolizing Agnes' attempt to move on. Despite her grief, she still has reasons to live, and this costume choice reflects her emotional state.
Dried Scabs and Emotional Transformation
The color palette continues to evolve, with Agnes donning a prune-colored skirt, likened to a dried scab by Turzanska. This unique description highlights the designer's attention to detail and her use of unconventional references. As the film concludes, Agnes' wardrobe hints at her emotional rebirth. She wears the same dress from a previous scene, now altered, symbolizing her attempt to reconnect with her past self.
Reimagining Shakespeare's Fashion
Turzanska's approach to Shakespeare's attire was equally innovative. She disregarded traditional depictions of the Bard, which were created posthumously, and instead focused on his emotional state. Tudor-style clothing with pinked and slashed textiles became a means to express Shakespeare's inner turmoil. The size of the slashes even varies, becoming larger after Hamnet's death, subtly indicating Shakespeare's emotional journey.
For Shakespeare's ghost costume, Turzanska's research led her to a cracked clay sculpture, a unique interpretation of the ghostly figure. She explains that ghosts were often depicted in sheets, a reference to burial practices. This insight resulted in Shakespeare's costume being covered in dried clay, a powerful visual metaphor for vulnerability and exposure.
What do you think about using such unique references in costume design? Is it a brilliant way to add depth, or does it risk distracting from the story? Share your thoughts on this fascinating blend of art and history!
